Tyres

Tyre Tips

Alignment

Wheel alignment is an important part of maintaining your car that consists of adjusting the angles of the wheels so that they are set to the car maker's specification. It is an important suspension-tuning tool that greatly influences the operation of the vehicle's tyres, and how the car performs on the road.

A car is out of alignment when the angles of a car’s steering system are not within the desired manufacturers specification. In the Caribbean, this problem is usually caused as a result of impact damage caused by potholes or sidewalks. However, it can also be created by defective springs or suspension wear on older vehicles. The condition can also be created when cars are raised or lowered.

The result of a mis-aligned car is more rapid tyre wear, and degradation in fuel efficiency. Alignment should therefore be checked when new tyres or suspension parts are being installed, or when tyres appear to be wearing unevenly. If the vehicle has suffered a major impact, the odds are its alignment has been thrown out and needs checking.

Types of Alignment

They are three different types of alignment:

Front End - only the front axle's angles are measured and adjusted, and are used primarily for solid rear axle vehicles. However, it is also important that the service technician confirms that the front tyres are positioned directly in front of the rear tyres.

Thrust Angle – used on rear axle vehicles, this form of alignment allows the service technician to confirm that all four wheels are aligned with each other, and that rear wheels are square with the front.

Four Wheel Alignment – is used on all vehicles with four-wheel independent suspensions or front wheel drive vehicles with adjustable rear suspensions. The procedure is similar to the thrust angle alignment, but also includes measuring and adjusting the rear axle angles as well as the front.

When sending your car to get aligned, you should ensure the vehicle is carrying a load that is typical under its everyday use. This is very important in order to ensure the service technician calibrates the angles of the wheels accurately.

The primary static suspension angles that need to be measured and adjusted are caster, camber, toe and thrust angle. Definitions of each angle and its influence on a vehicles and its tyres are as follows:

Caster

Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences direction of the steering but does not affect the tyre wear, and is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel returnability may be diminished when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the centre of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster.

Camber

Camber angle is the angle made by the wheel of an automobile. It is the angle between the vertical axis of the wheel and the vertical axis of the vehicle when viewed from the front or rear. It is used in the design of steering and suspension. If the top of the wheel is further out than the bottom (i.e. further away from the axle), it is called positive camber, if the bottom of the wheel is further out than the top, it is called negative camber.

Camber angle alters the handling qualities of a vehicle; in particular, negative camber improves grip when cornering. This is because it presents the tyre, which is taking the greatest proportion of the cornering forces, at a more optimal angle to the road, increasing its contact area and transmitting the forces through the vertical plane of the tyre, rather than through a shear force across it. Conversely, for maximum straight-line acceleration, the greatest traction will be attained when the camber angle is zero and the tread is flat on the road. Technology has now made the management of this angle far more scientific resulting in the handling of even low priced vehicles.

In older cars with double wishbone suspensions, camber angle was usually adjustable, but in newer models with McPherson strut suspensions, it is normally fixed. While this may reduce maintenance requirements, if the car is lowered by use of shortened springs, this changes the caster angle and can lead to increased tyre wear and even negatively impact handling. For this reason, individuals who are serious about modifying their car for better handling will not only lower the body, but also modify the mounting point of the top of the struts to the body to allow some lateral movement for caster adjustment.

Another reason for negative camber is that a rubber tyre tends to roll on itself while cornering. If the tyre had zero camber, the inside edge of the contact patch would begin to lift off of the ground, thereby reducing the contact patch. By applying negative camber, this effect is reduced, thereby maximizing the contact patch.

Toe

Toe is a measurement of how much the front and/or rear wheels are turned in or out from a straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, toe is positive (+). When the wheels are turned out, toe is negative (-). The purpose of toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel. Toe also serves to offset the small deflections of the wheel support system that occur when the vehicle is rolling forward. In other words, with the vehicle standing still and the wheels set with toe-in, the wheels tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving. Improper toe adjustment will cause premature tyre wear and cause steering instability.

Thrust Angle

The thrust angle is an imaginary line drawn perpendicular to the rear axle's centerline. It compares the direction that the rear axle is aimed with the centerline of the vehicle. It also confirms if the rear axle is parallel to its front axle and that the wheelbase on both sides of the vehicle is the same.

If a vehicle with a solid rear axle has an incorrect thrust angle, then it may require getting its frame straightened in order to correctly reposition the rear axle.

A vehicle with independent rear axles may have incorrect toe-in or toe-out on both sides of the axle, or may have toe-in on one side and toe-out on the other. The suspension on each side of the vehicle must be adjusted individually until it has reached the appropriate toe setting for its side of the vehicle.

An incorrect thrust angle is often caused by an out-of-position axle or incorrect toe settings. So in addition to the handling problems resulting from incorrect toe settings, thrust angles can also cause differences in how a vehicle handles when turning one direction as opposed to another.

Breaking in New Tyres

When tyres are manufactured, a mold release agent is applied to their surface to prevent them from sticking to their mold. As a consequence of this, when you take delivery of new tyres you may find the traction less that optimal for the first several hundred miles until the mold release agent is completely worn away. Remember that every tyre requires a break-in period for optimum performance, so do not push your new tyres too hard, too fast!

Calculating Tyre Dimensions

Width x Aspect Ratio = Section Height
Section Height x 2 = Combined Section Height
Combined Section Height + Wheel Diameter = Tyre Diameter

Example: 175/60R13 85H or 175/60HR13

175mm x .60=105mm
105mm x 2=210mm
210mm + 330.2mm(13")= 540.2mm or 21.27"

The first number is the width of the tyre in millimeters, measured from sidewall to sidewall. To convert to inches, divide by 25.4. In the example above, the width is 175mm or 6.89".

The second number is the aspect ratio. This is a ratio of sidewall height to width. In the example above, the tyre is 6.89" wide, multiply that by the aspect ratio to find the height of one sidewall. In this case, 175x0.60=105mm or 6.89"x0.60=4.08".

The last number is the diameter of the wheel in inches.

To figure the outside diameter of a tyre, take the sidewall height and multiply by 2, (remember that the diameter is made up of 2 sidewalls, the one above the wheel, and the one below the wheel), and add the diameter of the wheel to get your answer.

Cracked Tyres

Tyres are expected to perform under some of the harshest environmental conditions. And while a tyre's rubber compounds are formulated with anti-aging chemicals in their recipes, exposure to the elements will eventually cause rubber to lose some of its elasticity and allow surface cracks to appear.

These small cracks typically develop in the sidewalls or at the base of the tread grooves. These cracks may not extend beyond the outer surface of the tyre, and hence may only be cosmetic in nature. However, if the cracks are more intrusive in the rubber, then it maybe a good reason to replace the tyre.

As tyres age they usually will exhibit some level of cracking, although this phenomenon may be accelerated by too much heat, sunlight, exhaust fumes and ozone. Cracking can also be linked to sidewalk abrasion or excessive use of tyre cleaners and dressing that remove important anti-oxidants and ozone protection from the tyre. Interestingly enough, when sun damage or excessive cleaning causes cracks, the sidewall of the outward facing tyre will show damage, while the sidewall facing inward is rarely affected.

Dealing with a Tyre Blowout while Driving

Probably one of the most frightening experiences while driving is a tyre blowout. A blowout is usually caused by impact damage, overloading the vehicles or small punctures that results in a slow loss of air until the tyre eventually fails.

A driver’s first reaction to a blowout is to overcorrect the steering wheel when the first “jerk” is felt in the steering. Other typical habits are to immediately take one foot off the accelerator and apply brakes. However, studies have shown that these actions actually can result in a more dangerous event as the driver struggles to maintain control.

It should also be pointed out that one of the reasons a driver should always have both hands on the wheel is to be able to confidently control the vehicle in a blowout event. Drivers that are multi-tasking in the vehicle while driving with one hand, are far less likely to be able to control the vehicle in a blowout situation.

At the first sign of a blowout a driver should:

Maintain constant accelleration and gently counter steer to offset the “pulling” in the wheel so as to keep your vehicle stable in its lane. Resist the urge to pull the wheel too sharply in one direction as this creates a very unstable situation as it pertains to the location of your car on the road.
Once the car is under control, calmly apply brakes and pull to the side of the road.
Make sure and check your rearview mirror before you jump out of the car to avoid any potential accident with on-coming traffic.

By keeping calm you will be able to keep your vehicle under control, and safely bring it to a stop.

How Do I Read a Tyre?

Your tyre contains very useful information moulded into the sidewall. It shows the name of the tyre, its size, whether it is tubeless or tube type, the maximum load and maximum inflation, the important safety warning and much other information. I hope you find this handy information useful.

P215/65R15 89H

Shown here is the sidewall of a popular "P-metric," speed-rated auto tyre.

"P" stands for passenger;
"215" represents the width of the tyre in millimeters;
"65" is the ratio of height to width;
"H" is the speed rating;
"R" means radial; and
"15" is the diameter of the wheel in inches.

Some speed-rated tyres carry a Service Description, instead of showing the speed symbol in the size designation. The Service Description, 89H in this example, consists of the load index (89) and speed symbol (H). The H in this case indicates the tyre's maximum speed is 130 mph. See the chart below for other speed ratings:

A "B" in place of the "R" would mean the tyre is of belted bias construction. A "D" in place of the "R" means diagonal bias construction.

The maximum load is shown in lbs (pounds) and in kg (kilograms), and maximum pressure in psi (pounds per square inch) and in kPa (kilopascals). Kilograms and kilopascals are metric units of measurement.

The letters "DOT" certify compliance with all applicable safety standards established by the Department of Transportation (DOT).

Adjacent to this is a tyre identification or serial number. This serial number is a code with up to 11 digits that are a combination of numbers and letters.

The sidewall also shows the type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. The DOT requires tyre manufacturers to grade passenger car tyres based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance.

TREADWEAR 220 TRACTION A TEMPERATURE A

The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tyre when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track.

A tyre graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100.

It is wrong to link treadwear grades with your projected tyre mileage. The relative performance of tyres depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may vary due to driving habits, service practices, differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. They represent the tyre's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.

The temperature grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tyre's resistance to the generation of heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel.

Some typical information on the sidewall of a light truck tyre:

"LT" stands for Light Truck "LT235/85R16" is the size designation for a metric light truck tyre.
"LOAD RANGE D" identifies the load and inflation limits.
"RADIAL" indicates that the tyre has a radial construction.
"MAX LOAD SINGLE 2623 lbs AT 65 psi COLD" indicates the maximum load rating of the tyre and corresponding minimum cold inflation pressure for that load when used as a single. For normal operation, follow pressure recommendations in owner's manual or on vehicle placard;
"MAX LOAD DUAL 2381 lbs AT 65 psi COLD" indicates the maximum load rating of the tyre and corresponding minimum cold inflation pressure when used in a dual configuration. Other markings on the sidewall have the same meaning as described for the passenger car tyre.

Tyre inflation pressures are printed on a placard attached inside the driver's door. These pressures are the recommended pressures for your vehicle with original equipment tyres. Never exceed the maximum pressure ratings listed on the tyre.

Hydroplaning – How do I deal with?

Hydroplaning is if the tread on your tyres cannot expel all the rain water out from under your tyres - or, from under each patch of tyre that is supposed to be resting on the pavement and giving off traction. When hydroplaning, those tyre patches are riding on a layer of water instead of road.

One telltale signs of hydroplaning is that rear end of your car may feel a tad loose, and the steering will also immediately seem loose or little too easy. Additionally, the steering wheel may “yank” out of the blue, and the vehicle pulls toward the pool of water. Or, you may be approaching a curve and find that your vehicle doesn't respond to your steering. On a straight road, a small "wiggle" of the steering wheel can give you important information on whether you are hydroplaning.

Hydroplaning is caused by the following factors:

Water depth
Speed
The amount your car weighs
Width of the tyre
Depth of tread
All tyres will hydroplane with the right combo of speed and water depth

If you find you are in a situation where you are hydroplaning, you should follow the following instructions:

Do not touch the brakes – reduce your speed by lifting your foot off of the accelerator, engage your clutch if you are driving a manual vehicle, and let it coast to the point where the hydroplaning stops. You don't want to make any reactionary, jerking moves.
You will not be able to steer while the vehicle is hydroplaning, so do not move your steering wheel but hold it with a strong grip.
Wait until you can feel the road again under your tyres. The effect should be instantaneous and easy to sense, like you have once again landed on pavement.
Proceed with caution and test the brakes occasionally to ensure that they aren't flooded.

You can avoid hydroplaning by adhering to the following instructions:

Ensure that as much of the contact patch on the tyre touches the road surface as possible by paying attention to the tread depth on your tyres. Bald tyres provide poor traction on wet roads.
Keep your tyres at the proper inflation. An under inflated tyre hydroplanes at lower speeds, since there is less pressure to push the water out of the way.
Pay attention to the road coming up for standing or running water.
Watch the spray being sprayed by the cars ahead. If it suddenly increases it's likely that the car has hit a patch of water that could cause you to hydroplane. Also, drive in their tyre tracks so your tyres don’t have to displace as much water.
Check out your tyre tracks in the rear-view mirror. You should be able to see distinct tracks on the wet surface behind you, and even see your tread pattern on the surface for a few seconds before water covers it again. If you can’t see your tracks, slow down.
Keep your speed down in the rain – slow by at least 1/3.

Measuring Tread Depth

When a tyre wears it's important to realize that the tyre's ability to perform in rain will be reduced. With 2/32" of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in the rain at highway speeds will be significantly reduced.

In rainy conditions, you should consider replacing your tyres when they reach approximately 4/32" of remaining tread depth. This will provide enough tread depth to allow rain to escape through the tyre's grooves. If the water can't escape fast enough, your vehicle's tyres will be forced to hydroplane on top of the water and lose traction.

If you do not have a tyre depth gauge, U.S. coins can be substituted in order to assess the degree of tyre wear.

Place a penny into several tread grooves across the tyre. If part of Lincoln's head is always covered by the tread, you have more than 2/32" of tread depth remaining.
Place a quarter into several tread grooves across the tyre. If part of Washington's head is always covered by the tread, you have more than 4/32" of tread depth remaining.
Place a penny into several tread grooves across the tyre. If the top of the Lincoln Memorial is always covered by the tread, you have more than 6/32" of tread depth remaining.

Mixing Tyres – Why not to do it?

As a rule of thumb, tyres should not be mixed on any vehicle unless deemed acceptable by the tyre or vehicle manufacturer. Additionally, tyres with different tread patterns, or sizes, should not be mixed on a vehicle. Identical tyres should be used on all the vehicle’s wheel positions in order to maintain optimal control and stability of the vehicle. The same goes for mixing run-flat tyres with non-run flat tyres.

One of the major reasons for not mixing tyres is to ensure that all the vehicles tyres wear down at the same time, and ensures that drivers get their money’s worth out of the current tyres. It also allows the driver to select replacements that meet OE specifications.

Regrettably wearing out all tyres at the same time isn't always possible. Sometimes vehicle design, the use of differently sized tyres on front and rear axles, insufficient maintenance and/or driving conditions, and people’s budgets can prevent it from happening.

If a vehicle's tyres don't all wear out uniformly at the same time, drivers are typically forced to decide whether they should purchase a new set of tyres (forfeiting the worth of the two tyres not fully worn out) or just a pair of replacements. Obviously, purchasing a new set of tyres is best because it will maintain the handling balance engineered into the vehicle while restoring poor weather traction. However, it is also more expensive. Conversely, purchasing a pair of replacement tyres reduces immediate expense, it brings with it the options of choosing exact, equivalent or alternative tyres.

Since tyres play such an important role in every vehicle's comfort qualities and handling capabilities, it is always best to drive on tyres that are identical in every detail, including tyre brand, model, size and remaining tread depth; any other option involves some level of compromise.

Mounting & Balancing

Properly balanced Tyres are important for driving comfort and long tire life. Unbalanced Tyres can cause vibration, resulting in driver fatigue, premature tire wear and unnecessary wear to your vehicle's suspension. Tyres should be balanced when they are mounted on wheels for the first time or when they are remounted after repair. Tyres should be rebalanced at the first sign of vibration or "shimmy." Vibration may also be due to misalignment or mechanical problems

If a tyre is out of balance, it can adversely affect ride quality, shorten the life of your tyres, bearings, shocks and other suspension components. In many cases, balanced related problems become evident around 40-45 mph, and get worse as your speed increases.

Selecting the Right Tyre

The first thing you need to ensure is that the tyre you select must be able to support the weight of your vehicle. This is important because if your tyre is under specified, it will be overworked in sustaining the load of the vehicle, and its performance adversely affected in responding to a quick emergency.

The next thing you need to consider is the overall diameter of the tyre. All of today’s vehicles maintain computerized speed data, of which tyre diameter is an important function in the computed speed equation.

The suggested diameter range for cars and trucks is ±3% in diameter, while pickups and SUV’s can handle up to a 15% overage in tyre size. While a ±3% diameter increase or reduction in tyre diameter may sound very limiting, in most cases it allows approximately a ±3/4" diameter change.

For cars and vans, staying within a ±3% diameter change is desirable. Pick-ups and sport utility vehicles (SUVs) are usually engineered to handle up to a 15% oversize tyre. For more information on computing the dimensions of a tyre, please refer to the section on "Calculating Tyre Dimensions".

Substitute sized tyres can also be selected by applying a system called “Plus Sizing”. This system takes into account the diameters of the tyres and wheels, and then helps select the appropriate tyre width that ensures adequate load capacity.

Tyre Inflation – Why so important?

Having the right tyre pressure can prolong the life of your tyres. It also improves the overall safety of your vehicle and helps you use less fuel, which make it environmentally friendly and cost efficient.

If you drive on tyres that are under inflated, the walls of your tyres are more quickly worn down, and they tend to overheat. If they are over inflated, the centre of the tyre is the part of the tyre that maintains contact with the road; the outer treads do not touch the road. This leads to excessive wearing down of the tread in the centre of the tyre, which leads to reduced traction and an increased chance of a collision. If fact, research in the USA has shown that approximately 6% of all fatalities on US roads are caused by under inflated tyres suddenly failing.

That’s not all. Driving with wrong tyre pressure leads to increased fuel waste which makes your petrol bill higher. This is due to the fact that under-inflated tyres increase rolling resistance and your car needs more fuel to maintain the same speed as when your tyres have the correct pressure.

What is tyre pressure?

The tyre pressure is measured by working out the amount of air that’s been pumped into the inside in BAR pressure or PSI (pounds force). You should check the tyre pressure at least once a month, better once a week or whenever you think there might be a problem with your tyres.

In hot temperatures like we have in the Caribbean, tyres lose more pressure so you need to check them often. Remember that the air escapes from your tyres very slowly so it is very difficult to notice this and you might not even be aware that it’s happening.

How to inflate the tyres to correct pressure?

Read the owner’s manual and that should tell you everything you need to know. The information can also be marked inside the car (on the pillar of the driver’s door, the fuse box, or on the inside of the gas flap).

To accurately check the current pressure, you will need a tyre gauge. In maintaining your tyre pressures, please bear the following in mind.

You should be aware of your correct tyre pressure prior to inflating the tyre. Once you ascertain the correct pressure, set the appropriate PSI/BAR pressure on the machine (there should be instructions on how to do this on the machine and it is usually very easy to do).
Attach the air hose to the valve located of the outer rim of your wheel.
The machine will now inflate your tyre, stopping when it reaches the pressure you have selected. Some machines will “beep” or “ring”, others will just stop inflating.
Repeat the actions with all four tyres.
Drive off safely and don’t forget to check your tyre pressure weekly.

The Plus Concept

By applying the Plus Concept to your wheels and tyres, you can dramatically improve the performance and appearance of your vehicle. ,The Plus Concept simply defined means that by using a larger diameter wheel and a lower profile tyre, it is possible to properly maintain the overall diameter of the tyre, and in so do doing, keep changes in the odometer and speedometer at a minimum. Additionally, by using a lower profile tyre you can improve the handling of your vehicle, and improve steering response. However, the most significant improvement is that of overall appearance, as your car will show more wheel and less tyre sidewall.

Tyre Rotation

Tyre rotation, when completed at the recommended times, can provide several advantages, including preserving balanced handling and traction, and evening out tyre wear. In so doing, it can provide performance advantages that improve the handling of your car.

Even if your tyres do not show signs of wear, they should be rotated every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, and for easy reference is recommended every time you take your car for an oil change.

The concept of tyre rotation is that by allowing each tyre to be mounted in as many of the vehicle’s wheel positions as possible, the wear on the tyre is evened out, promoting even wear across the tread pattern.

They are several advantages to all four tyres wearing down together including:

As tread depth wear uniformly, this allows all four tyres to respond to steering action more quickly, and improves performance handling.
If all four tyres wear evenly, then tyres can be purchased in full sets instead of pairs, which again improves the overall handling of the car.
By purchasing tyres in sets of four, your can put the “latest and greatest” on your car, instead of trying to match older tyres.

The Tyre & Rim Association has identified three traditional rotation patterns covering most vehicles (equipped with non-directional tyres and wheels which are the same size and offset). These are as follows:

Four Tyre Rotation

On front-wheel drive cars, rotate the tyres in a forward cross pattern (Figure A) or the alternative X pattern (Figure B).
On rear-wheel or four-wheel drive vehicles, rotate the tyres in a rearward cross pattern (Figure C) or the alternative X pattern (Figure B).

With the advent of performance tyres and wheels, two addition patterns are not necessary.

The "Front-to-Rear" (Figure D) pattern may be used for vehicles equipped with the same size directional wheels and/or directional tyres.
A "Side-to-Side" (Figure E) pattern may be used for vehicles equipped with different sized non-directional tyres and wheels on the front axle compared to the rear axle.

If the last two rotation patterns do not provide even wear, dismounting, mounting and rebalancing will be necessary to rotate the tyres.

Vehicles that use different sized directional wheels and tyres, and/or wheels with different front and rear offsets with directional tyres, will require dismounting, mounting and rebalancing to rotate tyres.

Five Tyre Rotation

Many vehicles do carry a spare wheel, and once the spare is not marked as “for temporary use” it should form part of the rotation pattern on the vehicle. If vehicle rortation instructions are not available from the manufacturer, then insert the spare in the right rear position at every rotation. Place the tyre that would have gone to the right rear in the trunk as the spare until the next tyre rotation.

On front-wheel drive cars with full-size matching spare, rotate the tyres in a forward cross pattern (Figure F).
On rear-wheel or four-wheel drive cars with full-size matching spare, rotate the tyres in a rearward cross pattern (Figure G).

By following the above rotation patterns, you will help maintain equivalent tread depths on all five tyres throughout their life.

When Should I Replace My Tyres?

The easy answer is when the driver starts to experience slippage on wet roads, then the car should be immediately inpected by an Automotive Art service professional to establish whether in fact changing your tyres makes good sense.

The more scientific answer we recommend is; tyres be changed when they reach approximately 4/32” of remaining tread depth. Since water can't be compressed, you need enough tread depth to allow the rain to escape through the tyre’s grooves. If the water can't escape fast enough, your vehicle's tyres will be forced to hydroplane on top of the water, thereby losing traction and increasing stopping distances.

Tire & Wheel Care

Tire Treatments

To maintain your tires and keep them looking sharp with a deep, dark black color, Meguiar's offers TWO unique tire dressings - Meguiar's Gold Class Endurance and Meguiar's Hot Tire Shine. These products treat the rubber with Meguiar's own special conditioning agents as well as patented antioxidants that replenish your tires' original antioxidants and keep your tires looking blacker longer than generic tire dressings and protectants.

Wheel Cleaners & Metal Polishes

Wheel Cleaner

In an effort to help you keep your wheels sparkling clean we recommend one on the following Meguiar's products: Gold Class Instant Wheel Cleaner, Hot Rims/Cool Care All Wheel Cleaner, Gold Class All Wheel Cleaner, #36 Wheel Cleaner. They use tough, penetrating and neutralising agents to loosen and dissolve brake dust, road grime, and stubborn dirt build up.

Metal Polishes

To clean, polish and protect all metal, including brass, silver, copper, pewter and gold we recommend Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer.

Trim & Accent Care

To instantly restore colour and richness to faded and discoloured trim and moulding we recommend one of the following Meguiar's products: Gold Class Trim Detailer, Gold Class Protectant Wipes, NXT Generation® Tech Protect, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant.

By using one of these products trims are protected so well that the "like new" appearance lasts for weeks, not days.